It doesn’t get better than chocolate, rum, and great Caribbean views!
While it is awesome to relax and unwind on a beach when vacationing on a Caribbean island, after a while we get the urge to turn it up a notch by getting out and exploring the island. On this day, we pretty much travelled the full length of Grenada, venturing from our resort on the southwest tip of the island, all the way to the northeast corner of the island, taking in many amazing sights and experiences along the way.
Belmont Estate
Our first main stop was at Belmont Estate, an amazing cocoa plantation with a boutique chocolate factory. We were excited to try some chocolate, but first, the hostess who greeted us at the entrance asked us to join a few others in an unassuming building on the Estate near the road. There, we met Belmont’s friendly and knowledgeable host Kelly, who was just about to start a tour with a handful of other tourists – Perfect timing. Kelly took us outside for a casual stroll around the plantation, showing us some of the plants that grow in the area. We smelled some aromatic plants including Thai basil, lemongrass, and a dandelion-like plant – They all had distinctive and powerful odours – Pretty cool. We then headed across the road to a stand of cocoa trees where Kelly searched for a nice ripe pod to show us. He quickly found one, picked it from a tree, then cracked it open on a rock. After carefully opening up the cocoa pod shell, he offered us the pulpy kernel-like seeds to suck on – very fruity tasting with a bit of a sour tang.
When we returned to the main building, Kelly showed us where workers had picked ripe cocoa pods, removed the seeds and stacked them to ferment in wooden bins covered with banana leaves. He explained that the beans are regularly transferred by hand from bin to bin for a few days to help ensure an even fermentation. Wow – What a powerful smell! Kelly took us back outside to show us the large drying racks on rollers just above the ground where the beans dry for a few days more. Not sure if it’s really required or not, but he had the women take off their shoes and gently flip the beans over with their feet to speed the drying process – OK, that was interesting.
We also took a quick look into one of the more modern greenhouse-like drying buildings, although it was way too hot to stay in there for too long. From there we went back into the main building one last time for a sample of hot cocoa tea. Kelly made it very clear that it was not hot chocolate – It was a blend of dried roasted ground cocoa nibs mixed with cinnamon/nutmeg, bergamot (an orange-like fruit), and bay leaves. There must have been some sugar in there too – I have to tell you, even in the tropical heat, this hot beverage was absolutely delicious!
After looking at some samples of local fruit and spices on display, Kelly took us up to the nearby Chocolate Factory building where he showed us the grinding/mixing machines and the workers packaging the previously formed chocolate creations. After a brief explanation of the ‘tree to bar’ chocolate-making process, noting that the cocoa is organic and that pretty much every step along the way is still done by hand, with very few machines used. Kelly then took us next door to a showroom/gift shop where we sampled 100% cocoa nibs, 80% dark chocolate, 60% Dark Chocolate with ginger and cinnamon, and some real white chocolate. Personally, I thought the spiced chocolate was outstanding, so we purchased one of those along with some cocoa powder, cocoa tea balls, and another dark chocolate bar flavoured with salt. We really enjoyed our visit to Belmont Estate – A nice, small boutique Grenadian chocolatier making chocolates the old-fashioned way!
For other popular Tourist Attractions on the island, check out our Things to Do in Grenada page
For an overview of the “Caribbean Spice Island”, feel free to check out our Grenada Vacations page.
Our next stop was less than 10 minutes away… Where we took a rum tour the likes of which I’ve never experienced before…
River Antoine Estate Rum Distillery
Entering the grounds of the River Antoine Estate Rum Distillery, I have to say was not very glamorous. There’s no big gate or grand entrance, there’s not even a prominent sign announcing that the oldest rum distillery in Grenada is located here. Regardless, we drove right up and parked next to one of their main buildings. We wandered over to their storefront to request a tour, and a friendly staff member agreed to take us and another couple of tourists for an informative walk around the facilities, and as we were about to find out, a journey back in time! The first thing I noticed was a subtle campfire smell in the air as we walked past a massive mound of chopped sugar cane. The tour started by taking a look at the distillery’s feature attraction – A giant water wheel embedded into a cement wall. Apparently, this water mill wheel was installed in the early 19th century and powers much of the mechanical equipment at the distillery. Our guide explained that water is diverted from the nearby River Antoine and is channeled to the top of the giant wheel via a trough, providing natural ‘renewable’ power to a sugar cane conveyor belt and cane crushing machine we were about to see.
We visited River Antoine around noon so most of the guys were on lunch break, however, it’s not hard to imagine workers feeding sugar cane stalks onto a conveyor built that feeds the crusher, separating the valuable juice from the stalk. A staff member was kind enough to peel a piece of cane with his machete, then cut it into 3-inch lengths for us to sample – Always tasty as the sweet cane juice filled my mouth with the very first bite. Meanwhile, workers remove the spent stalks from the crusher and load them into what looked like an old miner’s cart that ran on a short set of railway tracks. Apparently, the crushed stalks, referred to as bagasse, are piled up and then laid out to dry in the sun before being burned as fuel for heating the evaporators. After the cane is crushed, the cane juice flows through a trough to the evaporator room next door.
The evaporator/boiler room can only be described as ‘rustic and traditional’. It actually reminded me of my grandparent’s smoking shed that doubled as a maple syrup boiling shed back in Canada. River Antoine’s evaporator, or boiler room housed a series of 5 old open-air steel pans/bowls, each one with a more intense fire under it than the previous one. A worker uses a long ladle to manually pass the hot liquid from one bowl to another until the cane juice is concentrated down to syrup. Again, not much has changed over the past 200 years or so. After several hours of evaporation, the cane syrup is fed next door to one of nine cement storage tanks for fermenting – a natural process where nothing, not even yeast, is added. After about a week or so, the fermentation process is complete and the liquid is piped to 2 large copper pot stills, referred to as kettles, for distillation.
The kettles are built on top of cement fireboxes, where local hardwoods are burned to provide direct heat to the kettles – Not something you see today in modern distilleries. That explains the piles of chopped wood nearby, and the constant smoky smell. After distillation and filtering, the rum is sampled and adjusted for strength. River Antoine white rum comes in two varieties, a strong 69% (138 proof) version and the powerful 75% (150 proof) variant. I understand that their 75% rum has so much alcohol in it that it is considered a flammable substance and hence cannot be transported by airplane. River Antoine Estates also produces a wide variety of rum punches, depending on what fruit is ripe on the island at the time of making. The bottling and storage room is once again, plain and simple. Three staff members take rum from previously filled large water coolers and fill each bottle by hand, label them, and complete the process with the help of a small capping machine.
To complete our tour, we sampled the 69% and 75% white rums. While the smell, especially of the 69% rum was quite funky and inviting, they were a bit too strong, with a fiery after-burn, for my taste. I imagine serious rum enthusiasts would appreciate the ‘high-ester’ rums more than I do. That said, I did purchase a bottle of their Passionfruit flavoured rum which I drank with friends when I got home. I have to say it was very enjoyable, with a bit of a funky ‘sweet and sour’ vibe going on – yum.
Wow – What a unique experience! Their whole process is just incredible. I’ve been to many rum distilleries throughout the Caribbean over the years, yet, I have never seen an operation that pretty much hasn’t changed in over 200 years! I suspect it would be tough to find this type of facility anywhere else in the world. Starting in 1785, River Antoine Estate is still making small batch rums the old-fashioned way – A must-visit on your next trip to Grenada.
If you’re interested in reading more about the Caribbean’s golden elixir, then check out our Caribbean Rum page as well as our Grenada Rum page, which includes a list of Tour Operators who will help you sample what Grenanda has to offer!
From there, we traveled about 15 minutes further north, for the literal “high-light” of the trip!
The Welcome Stone
With the help of some friendly locals pointing the way, we eventually found the road that would take us up to the Telecom tower area which we had heard offers spectacular views of Grenada. The final stretch of road to reach the peak was absolutely wild – It must have been on a 60° angle, so our little rental car was straining to make it up the hill. At the dead-end at the top of the road, we came to the realization that there is really only room for a single vehicle in the tiny parking area off to the side of the road – Regardless, that didn’t stop three of us from ‘finding a way’ to get our cars off the road. Anyways… We were about to discover that the Welcome Stone is well worth all the parking drama.
After parking the car, we followed a dirt trail that started alongside the fenced-in Telecom facility, to the other side of the mountain peak. The short hike started off on a bit of a steep boulder-strewn slope before transitioning to a nice leaf-covered trail through the forest. After a short 5-minute stroll we arrived at the scenic look-out area where there are a number of massive but climbable boulders to mount. From our rocky perches, we were treated to some truly sensational views of the northeast tip of Grenada and the Caribbean Sea, dotted with several islands protruding out of the endless blue. Directly below us, Levera Pond provided a nice dark watery contrast with the surrounding green/brown landscape. The offshore islands of Sugar Loaf, Green Island, and Sandy Island seemed so close, while Ronde Island and further in the distance, the outline of Grenada’s sister islands, Carriacou and Petite Martinique mysteriously were barely visible in the background. Enough said – I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves… After absorbing the incredible views for a while, we left the boulders to allow recently arrived folks to have an opportunity to enjoy the tranquil scenery.
Did I mention there was only enough parking at the top for a single vehicle? Well, when we got back to the top of the road, there were 3 other cars and a small van now bravely parked along the side of the road, all with large rocks under their tires to ensure they wouldn’t roll down the hill – Good idea! Another interesting Grenada attraction for sure!
For the more adventurous, this area is a good place to explore while hiking or snorkeling – For more info, including a list of local tour operators to get you on the trail or in the water, check out our Grenada Hiking or Grenada Snorkeling pages.
What a great day – and it wasn’t even over yet… We then drove down the west coast road, enjoying the amazing views of the Caribbean Sea with quick stops in Victoria, Gouyave, and St. George’s to pick up some spices for our trip home.
ACT Staff
For a more complete review of Grenada’s Attractions and things-to-do, along with a list of local Tour Operators who can help you get the most out of your day, check out our Top 6 Attractions in Grenada post
If you’re looking for something more active, check out our recommended Grenada Adventures blog
For an overview of the beautiful and diverse islands, click on our Grenada Vacations page
