Martinique Rhum – So much rhum… So little time!
Rum is such a big part of Caribbean history that whenever I’m in the Caribbean I just have to visit a local distillery or two. However, in the French Caribbean Island of Martinique, the choice is almost overwhelming. While plenty of Caribbean islands produce Rum, Martinique could be considered the rum, or should I say rhum (en Francais), capital of the world. With over 10 distilleries and likely hundreds of rhums produced on the island, the folks in Martinique take their rum-making seriously. This is evident with the formalization of the liquid gold with an AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) certification. Similar to French-made wines, cheeses and other spirits, the designation certifies the authenticity of Martinique rhums, characterized by their unique geographical origin and production techniques. The terminology used to describe Martinique rhums are also akin to brandies or wines – This includes rhum classifications such as VO, VSOP and XO, and some rhums from a particularly good batch are even sold as ‘vintages’
Oh… One other thing I should also mention is that French “Rhum Agricole” (agricultural rum) is made directly from sugar cane juice, not the molasses by-product of producing sugar, which is the case for most other Caribbean rums. As a result, Martinique rhum production includes a few different steps than other Caribbean distilleries and some of their rhums can be much more expensive than molasses-based rums – We’re talking hundreds of euros per bottle expensive. That said, a great thing about Martinique’s distilleries is that most of them are open to the public, offering free or reasonably priced plantation/distillery tours and rhum tasting along with storefronts providing the opportunity to purchase the rhum(s) of your choice.
So… on our recent trip to Martinique, I had to check out a couple of the rhum industry heavyweights, along with a couple of lesser-known distilleries.
Distillerie Saint-James et Musée du Rhum
Our first stop had to be the world-renowned Saint James Distillery and Museum of Rhum located in Sainte-Marie on the northeast coast of the island. We parked right next to the large distillery building which unfortunately was not in operation or open to tour when we visited in January, as it is “not in harvest season”. Instead, we wandered around on a self-guided tour of the Museum of Rhum / Maison de la Distillation. The old two-story building is filled with historical St. James memorabilia including old rhum-making equipment such as distillation columns, stills and steam-powered machinery. The building also contains tons of information on Martinique, sugar cane, as well as the French Agricole rhum-making process. For me, it was a thrill to see the incredible stash they have in their basement – Display cases stocked with very old rhums, some dating back as far as the 19th century!
I understand the rhums of St. James began in the 18th century when the Reverend Father in charge of a local hospital built a sugar refinery nearby, which eventually also produced alcohol. The rhum is named after one of the regions providing sugar cane to the refinery. However as France had banned alcohol sales other than wine at the time, the rhum produced was named Saint James, not Saint Jacques, making it easier to sell in the English colonies. Later in the 19th century, the St. James distillery parted ways with the typical round fat bottle of the time, becoming famous for its square bottle. While this move was likely developed to increase shipping efficiency, it presented a modern clean look, that is still attractive today.
After our enjoyable museum visit we went to their little train station out back. It wasn’t long before we boarded an old narrow-gauge train consisting of a small locomotive and three open-air passenger cars. Our train ride took us through fields of sugar cane and other crops in various stages of growth, as well as remarkably close to some residences – Not something we would ever see in North America. A young St. James tour guide entertained the passengers with an interactive and humorous presentation, most of which I, unfortunately, didn’t understand as my conversational French was not up to the task.
Our guide also did double duty as a crossing guard and switchman, hopping off the train at one point to manually sound an alarm and perform flag-man duties as the train crossed a rural road. The train traveled about a mile (< 2km) or so before stopping and reversing course, where at one point our tour guide once again jumped off, this time to switch our track, which took us to the impressive Habitation La Salle.
At the Habitation La Salle train station we disembarked and walked a short distance along a river before crossing a bridge and entering a wonderfully restored collection of 17th-century buildings. Formerly a sugar refinery, now the buildings house a coffee museum, a display of mill equipment used to crush sugar cane into juice, a fascinating “guildiverie” where evaporators and stills were used to produce tafia (a predecessor to rum), as well as aging/storage warehouses. There’s also a special tasting area and shop selling top-shelf artisan bottles of La Salle and St. James branded rhum. After meandering around the grounds of the habitation and exploring the banks of the river, the train returned to pick us up and return us back to the grounds of the St. James Distillery.
On the way to the St. James rhum shop, I noticed a small workshop where a craftsman was demonstrating how the rhum barrels are charred, instilling flavour into the rhum as they age – that was pretty cool. The building that houses the store, with its collection of old distillery and other centuries-old local artifacts, is a museum in its own right, almost distracting from the long bar at the back. Staffed with plenty of friendly and informative patrons, the tasting bar was a happening place. St. James’ latest offerings include a number of white and amber rhums, a variety of aged rhums along with some incredible vintage rhums as well as some interesting premixed concoctions.
While it was great to be immersed in Martinique’s rhum-making history and tradition, we eventually decided that our St. James Rhum experience had to come to an end… After a visit to the nearby Banana Museum and Habitation, we headed back to where we were staying on the other side of the island.
Rhum Depaz
The next afternoon it was overcast and threatening to rain – An excellent opportunity to explore another Martinique rhum distillery! Located in the foothills of Mount Pelee on the northwest side of Martinique just outside the former capital city of Saint-Pierre, reside the impressive grounds of the Depaz plantation and distillery. Back in the 17th century, this was home to the island’s first French Governor and his large farm known as La Montagne.
As soon as we arrived at the Depaz property, we were immediately drawn to the magnificent, what the English would call a Greathouse, on the nearby hillside. Chateau Depaz, also known as Depaz Castle, was built in the early 20th century as a replica of the childhood home of Victor Depaz. The original building was destroyed, along with the city of Saint-Pierre and the surrounding area, in 1902 when the Mount Pelee volcano erupted. Situated between colourful gardens with Mount Pelee in the background and manicured lawns and fields of sugar cane, the chateau enjoys spectacular views of the Caribbean Sea.
After wandering around the grounds for a while, we passed a large 19th-century water wheel before heading towards the distillery and a number of other buildings, situated in a beautiful park setting complete with magnificent centuries-old trees. Once again, we were ‘out of season’ when we visited in January so the distillery was not in operation nor open to the public. I understand that the buildings still operate with power from an old steam engine, fuelled by the remains of crushed sugar cane. It is unfortunate that we were not able to witness the crushing of the cane, the fermentation or the distillation of the precious juice. We did however stroll into the small Depaz Museum displaying some old farm and distillation equipment, as well as some other buildings. The highlight for me had to be peering into the warehouses used to store and age the delicious outputs from the distillery.
Eventually we made our way into their welcoming and informative storefront, where I learned about Depaz’s environmentally friendly farming and production practices as well as more about the sugar cane used to make their rhum, they emphasized the unique blue cane sugar, spring water and the volcanic ground, or “terroir”, local to the Mount Pelée region. Depaz Rhum’s latest offerings include a wide variety of white rhums, and aged rhums along with some special edition rhums that include specific vintages as well as exceptional barrel-finished rhums.
Well, all that walking around and learning had whet my appetite, so I was really looking forward to trying some of their rhums. After not so patiently waiting, a spot finally opened at the small tasting room bar. The friendly Depaz hostess was extremely helpful in explaining the differences between the rhums I wanted to sample. She generously gave me a sample of three whites and the same number of aged rhums. She wisely and professionally gave me enough to sample the elixir, without giving me too much to impair my ability to drive. I am not really a white rum drinker, however, their white rhums were incredibly unique to my palate. The aroma of one of them was pungent yet inviting, with a strong scent of wet green vegetation. The dominant tasting characteristic of the white rhums was a funky burn in the mouth and throat, however, it was kind of a good burn – much better than other white rums I have tasted. That said, I preferred the more flavourful aged rhums, especially the mellow and diverse taste of the reasonably priced ‘Cuvee Victor Depaz’, apparently a blend of bourbon-barrel-aged rhums between 3 and 6 years. I’m no connoisseur, however it tasted a little woody, fruity and herbal to me. When I open the bottle at home, I will try to imagine flavours of chocolate and prunes as suggested on the label. As I am very limited as to what I can bring home with me, I believe this was a solid choice!
After being amazed by the large colourfully labelled vats of rhum off the side of their shop, we called it a day – and it never did rain, or if it did, we didn’t notice it 🙂
Habitation Clement
A few days later we headed out to the illustrious Habitation Clement, located a little inland just south of Le Francois on the east side of Martinique. FYI – We visited the Habitation from the southeast region of the island and got lost trying to follow a Google maps shortcut. I suggest you just drive all the way into Le Francois and follow the ‘Habitation Clement’ signs at the main roundabout.
Anyways, once we found the place, we parked and paid a nominal fee to enter the property. The grounds are absolutely spectacular! Even if you’re not into rum, this is a great place to just stroll around and relaxingly take in the sights. Following the path from the entrance took us through a well-manicured landscape, including a couple of nice ponds. Fields of sugar cane and bananas surround the grounds – Crops we saw a lot of while exploring the island. Habitation Clement also highlights the work of many local artists, with their creative and imaginative creations displayed throughout the property. While I found some of the art pieces interesting, I was just as happy to feel the warmth of the sun, breath the fresh air and appreciate our gorgeous surroundings.
After a short sit on a bench soaking up the lush green Caribbean environment, we continued to follow the trail up a small hill to a small wooden structure with a grinding stone. The sugar cane crushing machinery would have been powered by a donkey walking around and around in circles. From this vantage point we had a great view of the palm grove and buildings below. At the bottom of the hill, the path took us through a wonderful variety of palm trees of different colours, shapes and sizes. We also passed another small pond, this one the canvass for another art display. From there we walked through a small patch of sugar cane and then things started to get more exciting, or at least more rhum themed.
We approached a building that just oozing with the strong but appealing smell of wood and aging rum. The scent was emanating of course from a warehouse full of rhum barrels – An overload to the nasal senses for sure. A little further along the trail and we came across a couple more warehouses filled with more Clement-stamped barrels of assorted shapes and sizes. After admiring the vast quantity of barrels in storage we went up the Clement Creole village consisting of a few old buildings that included a stable, a separate kitchen-house as well as the iconic Clement Greathouse, a graphic of which is used as their logo on every bottle of rhum and other products they sell. There is also a building that houses their renowned art exhibits. I was also enamored with the amazing old trees in the area, my favourites being a figuier, a red mahogany and a tamarind tree.
The path then took us into the old distillery for more things to see. It is no longer operating, however there are several old stills and various distillery machinery to look at. Upstairs the building houses an amazingly set of displays and presentations providing a detailed record of the history of sugar cane, rhum making, Martinique and Habitation Clement – Extremely informative and fascinating. By the way, an audio guide is available on your smartphone if you are interested in hearing all the details of the art displays and buildings encountered on the self-guided tour.
Eventually, our self-guided tour spilled us out into a small shop and sampling bar where some of Clément’s finest can be tasted. Latest offerings from Clement include a variety of white and aged rhums, as well as several rhum liqueurs and pre-mixed concoctions. I tried a white rhum and a young-age rhum as well as some rhum liqueurs and pre-mixed concoctions, with the highlight having to be a taste of a very well-aged cuvee – Extremely smooth and complex. That said, we ended up purchasing their Antilles (Planters) Punch to savour while we continued to vacation on the island.
It was a very enjoyable couple of hours, walking the well-manicured lawns, soaking up the warmth of the sun, appreciating the art, smelling the aromas of the barrel warehouses, and of course sampling Clement’s fine rhums and rhum liqueurs.
Distillerie Neisson
After one of our other Martinique adventures, we accidentally came across a distillery located on the western side of Martinique, just south of Le Carbet. Invited by the ‘Neisson Rhum’ signs along the N2 road, we thought we venture in for a look. We didn’t have time for a tour of the facility, however I understand that it consists of a stroll through a number of buildings that house a mill, a boiler, fermentation tanks, a column still, warehouses used for aging their rhums, as well as a bottling facility. After a brief look around, we visited their shop to sample a couple of aged rhums, and I ended up picking up one of their bottles of VO rhum, something I would never be able to find at home. I’ve never tasted a rhum so light and floral in my entire life – Very interesting. We enjoyed our brief visit to Rhum Neisson, and left with the impression of a small boutique rhum producer.
Ahhh – So many Martinique rhums, so little time… Other distilleries that I would have liked to have visited while we were on the island include La Mauny, Trois Rivieres, Habitation Saint Etienne (HSE), Dillon, La Favorite, J.M. and A1710 (Habitation Simon). Maybe next time 😊
If you’re interested in reading more about rum, check out our Caribbean Rum page and our Martinique Rhum page, which includes a list of Tour Operators who will get you sampling the island’s finest.
For an overview of beautiful and rugged Martinique, take a look at our Martinique Vacations page
For other great Tourist Attractions on the island, check out our Things to Do in Martinique page
ACT Staff
